General Considerations

There are so many factors to consider before you can begin your painting project. Leave the furniture in the room or take it out? What kinds of materials and equipment need to be used, and are you skilled in using them?

You have to decide what color should you use and how do you know you'll like it when it's done? One coat of paint, or two? What has sheen got to do with it? Is one brand of paint better than another, or are they all the same? When do you use an oil-based paint versus a water-based paint? When do you use a primer? Paint brush, roller or spray? Natural bristle brush or synthetic? Plastic or cloth tarp?

How do you prepare for the work that's involved? Do the walls need to be cleaned? How do you patch the holes in the wall? What needs to be caulked and what needs to be sealed? How dry and smooth does the wood need to be? Do you paint the trim? Do you paint the stairs? What's the best way to avoid getting paint where you don't want it? Do you throw away the leftover paint?

The list of considerations, preparations, actual painting and clean up afterwards involves among other things research, time, money, patience, and the skill to get the job done right.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

What are the important steps in painting your home's interior? One is to budget for it, and the Quick Estimator is great for helping you establish your budget. Another is to decide whether you will do it yourself or hire a professional to do it. Sure, you can probably consider doing it yourself, but the bigger question is do you want to?

Some questions to ask yourself if you're considering doing the project yourself:

• Have I done this work before and do I have the skills required to complete the project?
• Is specialized, up-to-date training required to complete the project or parts of it?
• Do I have the time, the patience and the energy to complete the project the way it should be done?
• Can I complete the project myself?
• Do I really want to do this project myself?
• Can I complete the project safely?
• Do I have the money to do the job over if the project doesn't get done right the first time?
• Do I have the right tools to do the project, or are they available on a rental basis at a reasonable rate and do I know how to use them?

If you've answered "no" to three or more of the questions, you should consider hiring a professional contractor to either help you complete the project or do the project for you. Some professionals will take the guesswork out of the project for you completely by taking care of all the "prep work", furniture moving, covering floors and other surfaces, as well as the actual painting. Others will work with you to get the "prep work" done along with the painting. Doing some of the "prep work", and furniture moving yourself, may help you lower the project costs.

Room Considerations

Properly preparing a room for painting can mean the difference between a paint job that's seamless, smooth and consistent, or one that ends up streaked, uneven, spotted, or even begins peeling. If you're going to do it yourself rather than hiring a professional, we've developed a checklist to help you in preparing your room for painting.

The Room Preparation Checklist includes, but may not be limited to the following steps:

• Remove as much of the existing furniture, decor, window coverings, and non-permanent fixtures from the room as possible.
• Move heavier furniture items to the center of the room, away from the walls allowing free access to the walls and the ceiling.
• Cover any remaining furniture completely with clean drop cloths
• Use easily removable tape* around moldings, doors and windows to keep paint off of them.
• Place clean drop cloths on the floors to protect them from paint spatters. You can use plastic and then cover it with cloth to provide a non-slip surface and extra coverage protection. To protect more fragile flooring such a marble, or ceramic, place moving pads over the floor, then place plywood over the pads, and finally, cover them with the clean drop cloths. On hard surfaces such a wood flooring, red rosin paper can be used as a covering. Your retailer can help you with any questions that you may have about protecting your floors during the painting process.
• Cover any smoke detectors, alarm equipment and other wall or ceiling mounted sensors and electronics with a plastic bag and tape around the bag it so it won't come off
• Seal any cold-air returns and cover any heating or air conditioning duct openings to prepare for the sanding and painting work.
• Remove any remaining nails with pliers, or with a claw (back end of the hammer) but first place a piece of wood under the claw part and use it as a leverage point, protecting the surface underneath. Then "countersink" the nail (meaning hammer it in with a tool called a nailset) below the surface, and simply spackle the hole left behind.
• Scraping, sanding and/or removal of old paint, may release lead dust, which is toxic. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself by contacting the National Lead Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead
• Scrape and/or sand loose or flaking surface paint, using sandpaper or a paint scraper*, down to the bare surface if necessary.
• Use a clean putty knife* to fill any nail holes, screw holes, damaged and bare surface areas with a good quality spackling compound*. Let the spackle dry completely and sand it. Repeat the process again until you have a clean and smooth painting surface*.
• Fill any cracks in trim with caulking and smooth with a damp rag.
• If the woodwork is seriously damaged it may be necessary to apply a colored epoxy filler that matches the existing wood, or neutral if it will be painted over later.
• Remove any dirt or grease by washing the surfaces thoroughly, spot cleaning as necessary. Common household cleaner will remove most stains*.
• Be sure to do one last sweep of the entire room with warm water to remove any remaining dust, dirt or cobwebs that might "texture" the finished paint job.
• Do some research or talk to your local retailer about removing or prepping more complicated stains such as those caused by mold, mildew, smoke or water damaged surfaces.
• Do some research or talk to your local retailer if you're going to be painting over semi-gloss or high-gloss surfaces.
• Rinse all surfaces thoroughly with water, as many times as necessary to remove the cleaning products
• Allow washed surfaces to dry completely before going any further with the work. The walls must be thoroughly and completely dry.
• After turning off all the power to the room to be painted, remove the outlet and switch cover plates in the room.
• While the power to the room is off, put a small piece of painter's tape* over the outlets and switch handles to keep paint from covering them.
• While the power to the room is off, remove the cover plates from any light fixtures.
• While the power is off to the room, cover any fixtures that cannot be removed with a plastic bag and tape*, so that the bag does not fall off. Remember not to turn the fixture power on while the bag is in place as damage may result.
• Double check your work against this list and then you're ready to go to the next steps in your painting project.

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects.

Ceiling Considerations

If you're considering painting just the ceiling and not the walls in a room, you'll need to cover the walls, to protect them from the ceiling paint. When necessary, the walls can be covered with a painter's drop cloth to keep them clean. If you're going to be painting both the ceiling and the walls, it's a good idea to paint the ceiling first, and then the walls.

To prep the room for painting, see our Room Preparation Checklist (in the Rooms tab of the Quick Estimator). Painting your ceiling with a primer* is a good idea if it has stains on it from smoke, water, or grease. The primer will create a clean and smooth surface for the next phase of the job, which is painting the ceiling your choice of paint color. For tougher or unusual stains such mold or mildew, consult your local retailer on the best approach.

When selecting a paint color for your ceilings, consider that the most commonly selected color is a shade of white. There are many shades of white that are available for you to choose from. White doesn't have to be your only color choice for the ceiling. Given the proper room and architecture, painting the ceiling a color other then white, can add an interesting accent to the room and a certain style. There are also paints that are formulated specifically for painting ceilings.

Some tips to remember when choosing the paint color for the ceiling:

• If your ceiling height is 8' or less, consider painting the ceiling a shade or two lighter than the wall color that you've selected. This will give the illusion of space and a higher ceiling to the room
• If your ceiling height is 8' or more, and you'd like to give the ceiling the illusion of being lower than it really is, paint the ceiling a shade or two darker than the walls.
• When painting the ceiling and the walls at the same time, be sure the hue of the ceiling paint color that you've chosen compliments the color of your walls, style and decor by bringing the paint cards/chips or color samples with you when choosing your ceiling paint color. This will give you a good idea of how they might look together.
• If your ceiling has moulding around it, or it has a fixture with a decorative trim (or medallion) around it, consider whether you will be painting it the same color as the ceiling.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint - water and solvent based. Latex, acrylic, water-borne (water based) paint is easy to work with and by far the most popular. It dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water. Alkaloid (oil based) paints are sometimes subject to yellowing, and may take longer to dry. Oil based paints can have a very strong odor, and also need to be cleaned up with solvent. Both oil and water based types of paint come in wide ranges of colors, so either can provide almost any color you might want. If you are planning on painting over a previously painted surface, consult with your local retailer as to the type of paint you should use.

Paint Applicators

Paint brushes with natural bristles are meant to be used with oil-based paints. Natural bristles will soak up the water and become limp and compressed in water-based paints. Newer synthetic bristles are designed for water-based or latex paints, but can be used for anything. Densely packed bristles that taper to a chisel edge help with painting a straight edge, or "cutting in" where a larger applicator cannot be used due to the size of the area that needs to be painted.

Foam brushes come in many widths, are inexpensive, and are good for small jobs or touch-ups.

Paint rollers with a phenolic core will last longer than a plastic core, which will last longer than one with a cardboard core. The roller "nap" (which is the fullness and thickness of the fibrous covering) should be selected according to the surface that is being painted*. Consider using a lint-free roller cover whenever selecting an eggshell or satin, semi-gloss or gloss paint sheen.

Paint Sheen

Sheen is another important aspect of paint that needs to be considered when painting the ceiling. Sheen is a measurement of the light reflecting properties of a paint finish. Paint sheens range from flat to high gloss. Manufacturers label their paint sheens in a variety of ways, but typically there are four (4) types of paint sheens, they include; flat, eggshell or satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Flat Paint

• Also called a "matte" finish
• Generally non-reflective, but top quality flats may still have a very slight sheen when two coats are applied
• Tends to hide surface imperfections, including scratches and small dents
• Good choice for large interior ceilings that have imperfections
• Quality flat paint is very washable
• May be susceptible to damage from constant exposure to high humidity and water
• Generally used on ceilings and walls in main living areas.

Eggshell or Satin Paint

• Both eggshell and satin paint have slightly more sheen than flat and are often referred to as having a "moderate paint sheen" level
• Eggshell usually has a lower sheen than satin paint
• Good choice for interior walls, for kids' rooms or high traffic areas
• Can be used in kitchens and bathrooms or applied to trim and doors
• Better stain resistance than flat paints, resists and can be scrubbed more vigorously than flat paint

Semi-gloss Paint

• Has a higher sheen than eggshell or satin finishes
• More resistant to dirt and scuff marks and easier to clean than eggshell or satin finishes
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• Areas that require regular or vigorous cleaning may benefit from using a semi-gloss paint

Gloss Paint

• This highly reflective finish is tougher, more stain resistant and easier to clean than any lower paint sheen
• Because of their highly reflective nature surface imperfections will be noticeable and possibly exaggerated
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• May have a "plastic", coated look when applied to smooth trim and doors

After you've prepped your room, primed your ceiling, selected the paint color for the job and brought all of your paint products, supplies and applicators into the room, you're ready to get started.

Some tips to remember when painting the ceiling:

• If you're going to use a roller to paint the ceiling, an extension pole for your roller is a good idea as you can purchase it at your local retailer, and it saves save the amount of time you spend moving up and down a ladder
• Use what is called a "cut-in" brush to paint the ceiling areas that your roller cannot reach, and cut-in only what you can blend with your rolled areas, while they're still wet
• When working with a roller, work only in one direction, paint in three to five foot wide sections, keep moving continuously from one wall to the other keeping a wet edge, and paint into a light source (window) which can help you to "see" streaks or overlap marks
• Use very little pressure when going over a section that has just been painted a second time to level out any paint lines or ridges
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

And now you're ready to clean up!

Always fold the used drop cloths in on themselves before removing them. Gently remove the tape after the paint is dry. Never rip the tape off by force. If the tape is sticking, use a bladed tool* along the edge where the tape and the paint meet, then pull the tape up very slowly, after loosening it with the tool.

Remove the plastic bags from your ceiling fixtures, alarm sensors and other fixed electrical mountings. Replace any mounting parts that were removed or loosened. Vacuum to remove any sanding debris, put your curtains back up, replace the furniture, and the accent pieces back into the room, and enjoy your newly painted ceiling!

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects

Wall Considerations

If you're going to be painting both the ceiling and the walls in a room, it's a good idea to paint the ceiling first, and then the walls. For information on painting a ceiling see our Ceiling Considerations (in the Ceiling tab of the Quick Estimator).

To prep the room for painting, see our Room Preparation Checklist (in the Rooms tab of the Quick Estimator). Painting your walls with a primer* is a good idea if it has stains on it from smoke, water, or grease. The primer will create a clean and smooth surface for the next phase of the job, which is painting the walls your choice of paint color. For tougher or unusual stains such mold or mildew, consult your local retailer on the best approach.

There are many considerations to think about and choices to make when painting the walls in a room. One helpful option is to consider consulting with a decorating design professional for advice on paint selection and placement before starting the job.

Some tips to remember when choosing the paint color for the walls:

• When selecting a paint color for your walls, consider the room's architecture, features such as fireplaces, built-ins, the amounts and sources of natural and artificial lighting, the ceiling color, decor, trim, windows and doors.
• Will all the walls in the room be painted the same color or will you use an accent color on one of the walls?
• Does a wall, or part of a wall in the room to be painted "flow" into another room that may not be considered for painting at the same time? How will the color you select, look in the room that has the adjoining wall feature?
• When painting the walls, be sure the hue of the wall paint color that you've chosen compliments the color of your ceiling, style and decor by bringing the paint cards/chips or color samples with you when choosing your wall paint color. This will give you a good idea of how they might all look together.
• Consider painting a section of a wall in the room to be painted with the new color to see how it looks when dry. If you don't like it you can paint over it with another color that you like better.
• If your walls have moulding or trim on them, consider whether you will be painting these items the same color as the walls.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint - water and solvent based. Latex, acrylic, water-borne (water based) paint is easy to work with and by far the most popular. It dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water. Alkaloid (oil based) paints are sometimes subject to yellowing, and may take longer to dry. Oil based paints can have a very strong odor, and also need to be cleaned up with solvent. Both oil and water based types of paint come in wide ranges of colors, so either can provide almost any color you might want. If you are planning on painting over a previously painted surface, consult with your local retailer as to the type of paint you should use.

Paint Applicators

Paint brushes with natural bristles are meant to be used with oil-based paints. Natural bristles will soak up the water and become limp and compressed in water-based paints. Newer synthetic bristles are designed for water-based or latex paints, but can be used for anything. Densely packed bristles that taper to a chisel edge help with painting a straight edge, or "cutting in" where a larger applicator cannot be used due to the size of the area that needs to be painted.

Foam brushes come in many widths, are inexpensive, and are good for small jobs or touch-ups.

Paint rollers with a phenolic core will last longer than a plastic core, which will last longer than one with a cardboard core. The roller "nap" (which is the fullness and thickness of the fibrous covering) should be selected according to the surface that is being painted*. Consider using a lint-free roller cover whenever selecting an eggshell or satin, semi-gloss or gloss paint sheen.

Paint Sheen

Sheen is another important aspect of paint that needs to be considered when painting the walls. Sheen is a measurement of the light reflecting properties of a paint finish. Paint sheens range from flat to high gloss. Manufacturers label their paint sheens in a variety of ways, but typically there are four (4) types of paint sheens, they include; flat, eggshell or satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Flat Paint

• Also called a "matte" finish
• Generally non-reflective, but top quality flats may still have a very slight sheen when two coats are applied
• Tends to hide surface imperfections, including scratches and small dents
• Good choice for large interior walls that have imperfections
• Quality flat paint is very washable
• May be susceptible to damage from constant exposure to high humidity and water
• Generally used on ceilings and walls in main living areas.

Eggshell or Satin Paint

• Both eggshell and satin paint have slightly more sheen than flat and are often referred to as having a "moderate paint sheen" level
• Eggshell usually has a lower sheen than satin paint
• Good choice for interior walls, for kids' rooms or high traffic areas
• Can be used in kitchens and bathrooms or applied to trim and doors
• Better stain resistance than flat paints, resists and can be scrubbed more vigorously than flat paint

Semi-gloss Paint

• Has a higher sheen than eggshell or satin finishes
• More resistant to dirt and scuff marks and easier to clean than eggshell or satin finishes
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• Areas that require regular or vigorous cleaning may benefit from using a semi-gloss paint

Gloss Paint

• This highly reflective finish is tougher, more stain resistant and easier to clean than any lower paint sheen
• Because of their highly reflective nature surface imperfections will be noticeable and possibly exaggerated
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• May have a "plastic", coated look when applied to smooth trim and doors

After you've prepped your room, primed your walls, selected the paint color for the job and brought all of your paint products, supplies and applicators into the room, you're ready to get started.

Some tips to remember when painting the walls:

• If you're going to use a roller to paint the walls, an extension pole for your roller is a good idea as you can purchase it at your local retailer, and it saves save the amount of time you spend moving up and down a ladder
• Use what is called a "cut-in" brush to paint the ceiling areas that your roller cannot reach, and cut-in only what you can blend with your rolled areas, while they're still wet
• When working with a roller, work only in one direction, paint in three to five foot wide sections, keep moving continuously from one wall to the other keeping a wet edge, and paint into a light source (window) which can help you to "see" streaks or overlap marks
• Use very little pressure when going over a section that has just been painted a second time to level out any paint lines or ridges
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

And now you're ready to clean up!

Always fold the used drop cloths in on themselves before removing them. Gently remove the tape after the paint is dry. Never rip the tape off by force. If the tape is sticking, use a bladed tool* along the edge where the tape and the paint meet, then pull the tape up very slowly, after loosening it with the tool.

Turn power to the room back on. Remove the plastic bags from your ceiling fixtures, alarm sensors and other fixed electrical mountings. Replace any mounting parts that were removed or loosened. Vacuum to remove any sanding debris, put your curtains back up, replace the furniture, and the accent pieces back into the room, and enjoy your newly painted walls!

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects

Window Considerations

Wooden windows are exposed to more temperature changes, direct sunlight, and condensation than virtually any other woodwork in your home. This requires that they be painted more often than mouldings, trim and doors. Because of the variety of windows, structure, moving parts and fragility of the glass in the windows, the process to paint them is sometimes confusing and perhaps a little challenging.

It is important to understand what type of window is to be painted. Understanding what kind of window is going to be painted and how the window operates will be helpful in painting the window. For the purposes of this section, the following four (4) window types will be discussed: Double Hung, Sliding, Fixed and Casement.

Generally, preparation for window painting includes sanding (taking care not to scratch or damage the glass), scraping, filling and priming. The process can be messy and requires that areas around the window be covered to protect them. Typical preparation steps for painting a window can include but not be limited to the following:

• Remove custom window locks, pulls, tiebacks, curtain rods, and all other hardware from the window
• Cover the floor under and near the window using a drop cloth and masking paper
• Protect the walls with tape* placed on the wall up to the edge of the window trim
• Place tape* on glass areas so as to protect them while repairs are being made and to keep primer and paint away from it (take care to remove tape as soon as the paint is dry so that sunlight does not adhere the tape to the glass)
• Repair any damaged areas on the window
• Scraping, sanding and/or removal of old paint, may release lead dust, which is toxic. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself by contacting the National Lead Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead
• Remove all loose paint
• Sand repaired areas to a smooth finish or feather the edges
• Remove all heavy paint lines and brush lines prior to priming
• Remove all dust with a vacuum and a tack rag
• Prime all raw wood areas before they are painted
• Caulk all gaps in the trim, stops to the trim and the trim to the wall if needed
• Fill gaps between the wall and the trim with light weight spackle that can be easily sanded when dry, as necessary
• Plan the window painting as early in the day as possible. This will allow the primer and paint to dry before handling or closing in the evening
• While the window paint is setting, gently move the sashes back and forth so as to prevent the sash from adhering to the window and altering the operation of the window

There are many considerations to think about and choices to make when painting the windows in a room. One helpful option is to consider consulting with a decorating design professional for advice on paint selection and placement before starting the job.

Some tips to remember when choosing the paint color for the windows:

• When selecting a paint color for your windows, consider the room's architecture, features such as fireplaces, built-ins, the amounts and sources of natural and artificial lighting, the ceiling color, decor, trim, and doors.
• Does the window to be painted share a wall with another room? How will the color that you select for your window, look in the room that has the adjoining wall feature?
• When painting the windows, be sure the hue of the window paint color that you've chosen compliments the color of your ceiling, style and decor by bringing the paint cards/chips or color samples with you when choosing your window paint color. This will give you a good idea of how they might all look together.
• Consider painting a section of a window in the room of windows that are going to be painted with the new color to see how it looks when dry. If you don't like it you can paint over it with another color that you like better.
• Be careful not to paint over any vent holes in the window trim of storm windows.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint - water and solvent based. Latex, acrylic, water-borne (water based) paint is easy to work with and by far the most popular. It dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water. Alkaloid (oil based) paints are sometimes subject to yellowing, and may take longer to dry. Oil based paints can have a very strong odor, and also need to be cleaned up with solvent. Both oil and water based types of paint come in wide ranges of colors, so either can provide almost any color you might want. If you are planning on painting over a previously painted surface, consult with your local retailer as to the type of paint you should use.

Paint Applicators

Paint brushes with natural bristles are meant to be used with oil-based paints. Natural bristles will soak up the water and become limp and compressed in water-based paints. Newer synthetic bristles are designed for water-based or latex paints, but can be used for anything. Densely packed bristles that taper to a chisel edge help with painting a straight edge, or "cutting in" where a larger applicator cannot be used due to the size of the area that needs to be painted.

Foam brushes come in many widths, are inexpensive, and are good for small jobs or touch-ups.

Paint rollers with a phenolic core will last longer than a plastic core, which will last longer than one with a cardboard core. The roller "nap" (which is the fullness and thickness of the fibrous covering) should be selected according to the surface that is being painted*. Consider using a lint-free roller cover whenever selecting an eggshell or satin, semi-gloss or gloss paint sheen.

Paint Sheen

Sheen is another important aspect of paint that needs to be considered when painting the windows. Sheen is a measurement of the light reflecting properties of a paint finish. Paint sheens for windows range from eggshell/satin to high gloss. Manufacturers label their paint sheens in a variety of ways, but typically there are three (3) types of paint sheens for windows, they include; eggshell or satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Eggshell or Satin Paint

• Both eggshell and satin paint have slightly more sheen than flat and are often referred to as having a "moderate paint sheen" level
• Eggshell usually has a lower sheen than satin paint
• Good choice for interior walls, for kids' rooms or high traffic areas
• Can be used in kitchens and bathrooms or applied to trim and doors
• Better stain resistance than flat paints, resists and can be scrubbed more vigorously than flat paint

Semi-gloss Paint

• Has a higher sheen than eggshell or satin finishes
• More resistant to dirt and scuff marks and easier to clean than eggshell or satin finishes
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• Areas that require regular or vigorous cleaning may benefit from using a semi-gloss paint

Gloss Paint

• This highly reflective finish is tougher, more stain resistant and easier to clean than any lower paint sheen
• Because of their highly reflective nature surface imperfections will be noticeable and possibly exaggerated
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• May have a "plastic", coated look when applied to smooth trim and doors

After you've prepped your windows, primed your windows, selected the paint color for the job and brought all of your paint products, supplies and applicators into the room, you're ready to get started.

Painting the Four Types of Windows

For the purposes of this section, the following four (4) window types will be discussed

• Double Hung - Two sashes which slide vertically, and close against the top and the bottom of the window frame as part of the normal operation of the window
• Sliding - Two sashes which slide horizontally, and close against the left and right side of the window frame as part of the normal operation of the window
• Fixed - No moving sashes
• Casement Windows operate by opening away from the frame (pivoting against the outside edges of the frame), into the exterior space of the house, generally via a hand crank (turning) motion

Some tips to remember when painting double hung windows:

• Raise the lower sash to a few inches of the top and lower the upper sash within a few inches of the bottom
• Paint as much of the upper and lower sashes that are accessible and visible as possible
• Slide each sash back to within two to three inches of its normally closed positions
• Paint as much of the unpainted surfaces that are visible and accessible as possible
• Leave the sashes open and paint the window frame and trim, taking care not to paint any sliding tracks
• After the sashes have dried thoroughly, close the windows and paint the accessible parts of the runners, taking care not to paint the sash cords if they are present
• Do not apply paint to weather stripping, vinyl, plastic, metal, or any other non-wood parts. Solvents in paints may cause plastic or vinyl parts in particular, to become brittle and possibly require replacement
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

Some tips to remember when painting sliding (horizontally) windows:

• Move the left sash to a few inches of the right edge of the frame and move the right sash to a few inches of the left frame
• Paint as much of the left and right sashes that are accessible and visible as possible
• Slide each sash back to within two to three inches of its normally closed positions
• Paint as much of the unpainted surfaces that are visible and accessible as possible
• Leave the sashes open and paint the window frame and trim, taking care not to paint any sliding tracks
• After the sashes have dried thoroughly, close the windows and paint the accessible parts of the runners, taking care not to paint the sash cords if they are present
• Do not apply paint to weather stripping, vinyl, plastic, metal, or any other non-wood parts. Solvents in paints may cause plastic or vinyl parts in particular, to become brittle and possibly require replacement
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

Some tips to remember when painting fixed (fixed sash) windows:

• Some fixed windows (sash or sashes do not move) may have wooden mullions or muntin bars (a structural element, which divides adjacent window units. Mullions may be made of any material, but wood and aluminum are most common). These elements of the window structure should be painted first
• Starting at the top using a "cut-in" paint brush*, to paint the sides of the mullions, and then the tops, taking care to keep the paint evenly brushed on all the surfaces
• When the mullions are painted, do the next surface as before gradually working outwards to the edges of the window frame
• Finish by painting the window sill and apron
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

Some tips to remember when painting casement windows:

• Open the window wide enough to access and paint it to the farthest edges including the top, side and bottom edges
• Paint the top and bottom horizontal areas and rails (crossbars and frame casings)
• Fully extend the window open and finish painting the upper and lower areas, finishing with the final vertical rail and the remaining unpainted edges
• Complete by painting the trim
• After the sections have dried thoroughly, close the windows
• Do not apply paint to weather stripping, vinyl, plastic, metal, or any other non-wood parts. Solvents in paints may cause plastic or vinyl parts in particular, to become brittle and possibly require replacement
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

And now you're ready to clean up!

Always fold the used drop cloths in on themselves before removing them. Gently remove the tape after the paint is dry. Never rip the tape off by force. If the tape is sticking, use a bladed tool* along the edge where the tape and the paint meet, then pull the tape up very slowly, after loosening it with the tool.

Vacuum to remove any sanding debris, replace window locks, pulls, tiebacks, curtain rods, and all other window hardware, put your curtains back up, replace the furniture, put the accent pieces back into the room, and enjoy your newly painted windows!

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects.

Door Considerations

Interior doors can add to the beauty and value of a home. They are a substantial part of a home's initial investment and its ongoing value. Doors can add style and elegance to your home, providing period details (English, Italian, French, Contemporary, etc.) that match your decorating sense of style. They can also help to define the purpose of a room, add privacy to it or bring quiet to it. Painting this valuable investment can help to protect it, give it a unique appearance and keep it looking beautiful for years to come.

Generally, preparation for door painting includes sanding, scraping, filling and priming. The process can be messy and requires that areas around the door be covered to protect them. Typical preparation steps for painting doors can include but not be limited to the following:

• Remove door hardware or cover it
• Secure the door so that it is stationary and stable for painting (Tip and turn a stir stick on edge to form a door stop)
• Cover the floor under and near the door using, a piece of cardboard, a drop cloth or masking paper
• Clean the door by dusting (with a tack cloth) and /or vacuuming it
• Clean the door as necessary with a phosphate-free cleaner and warm water, rinse thoroughly, and let it dry completely before proceeding with any other steps
• Repair any damaged areas on the door*
• Scraping, sanding and/or removal of old paint, may release lead dust, which is toxic. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself by contacting the National Lead Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead
• Remove all loose paint
• Sand repaired areas to a smooth finish or feather the edges
• If the door has a glossy sheen, dull the sheen by lightly sanding it, then clean it to remove the sanding debris so that it does not mix into the new paint
• Remove all heavy paint lines and brush lines prior to priming
• Prime all raw wood areas before they are painted

There are many considerations to think about and choices to make when painting a door or a set of doors. One helpful option is to consider consulting with a decorating design professional for advice on paint selection and placement before starting the job.

Some tips to remember when choosing the paint color for the door:

• When selecting a paint color for your door, consider the room's architecture, features such as fireplaces, built-ins, the amounts and sources of natural and artificial lighting, the ceiling color, decor, windows, and doors.
• Is the trim around the door going to be painted using the same color, type and sheen of paint?
• Does the door to be painted share a wall with another room? How will the color that you select for your door, look in the adjoining room?
• When painting the door, be sure the hue of the door paint color that you've chosen compliments the color of your ceiling, style and decor by bringing the paint cards/chips or color samples with you when choosing your door paint color. This will give you a good idea of how they might all look together.
• Consider painting a section of a door with the new color to see how it looks when dry. If you don't like it you can paint over it with another color that you like better.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint - water and solvent based. Latex, acrylic, or water-borne (water based) paint is easy to work with and by far the most popular. It dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water. Alkaloid (oil based) paints are sometimes subject to yellowing, and may take longer to dry. Oil based paints can have a very strong odor, and also need to be cleaned up with solvent. Both oil and water based types of paint come in wide ranges of colors, so either can provide almost any color you might want. If you are planning on painting over a previously painted surface, consult with your local retailer as to the type of paint you should use.

Paint Applicators

Paint brushes with natural bristles are meant to be used with oil-based paints. Natural bristles will soak up the water and become limp and compressed in water-based paints. Newer synthetic bristles are designed for water-based or latex paints, but can be used for anything. Densely packed bristles that taper to a chisel edge help with painting a straight edge, or "cutting in" where a larger applicator cannot be used due to the size of the area that needs to be painted.

Foam brushes come in many widths, are inexpensive, and are good for small jobs or touch-ups.

Paint rollers with a phenolic core will last longer than a plastic core, which will last longer than one with a cardboard core. The roller "nap" (which is the fullness and thickness of the fibrous covering) should be selected according to the surface that is being painted*. Consider using a lint-free roller cover whenever selecting an eggshell or satin, semi-gloss or gloss paint sheen.

Paint Sheen

Sheen is another important aspect of paint that needs to be considered when painting the doors. Sheen is a measurement of the light reflecting properties of a paint finish. Paint sheens for doors range from eggshell to high gloss. Manufacturers label their paint sheens in a variety of ways, but typically there are three (3) types of paint sheens for doors, they include eggshell or satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Eggshell or Satin Paint

• Both eggshell and satin paint have slightly more sheen than flat and are often referred to as having a "moderate paint sheen" level
• Eggshell usually has a lower sheen than satin paint
• Good choice for interior walls, for kids' rooms or high traffic areas
• Can be used in kitchens and bathrooms or applied to trim and doors
• Better stain resistance than flat paints, resists and can be scrubbed more vigorously than flat paint

Semi-gloss Paint

• Has a higher sheen than eggshell or satin finishes
• More resistant to dirt and scuff marks and easier to clean than eggshell or satin finishes
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• Areas that require regular or vigorous cleaning may benefit from using a semi-gloss paint

Gloss Paint

• This highly reflective finish is tougher, more stain resistant and easier to clean than any lower paint sheen
• Because of their highly reflective nature surface imperfections will be noticeable and possibly exaggerated
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• May have a "plastic", coated look when applied to smooth trim and doors

After you've prepped your door, primed your door, selected the paint color for the job and brought all of your paint products, supplies and applicators into the painting area, you're ready to get started.

Some tips to remember when painting doors:

• Use a quality paint brush to apply the paint
• Load the brush by inserting about one-third of the brush in the paint and tap the brush on the side of the can to remove the excess
• Do not overload the brush with paint between strokes
• Apply the paint to the door in long even strokes unloading first one side of the brush and then the other
• Smooth out any paint lines as needed after both sides of the brush have been unloaded
• Work continuously spreading the paint out evenly and smoothly so as to leave no brush lines
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Paint the top and the bottom edge of the door this will help to seal it and prevent the door from swelling
• Paint the inside beveled edges of the door, brush each corner to evenly spread out any pooling paint
• Paint the flat sections of each panel from top to bottom using even pressure and strokes
• Paint the horizontal rails to the edge, smoothly brushing the paint as you move across them
• Paint the vertical rails to the edge, smoothly brushing the paint as you move across them
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

And now you're ready to clean up!

Always fold the used drop cloths in on themselves before removing them. Gently remove the tape after the paint is dry. Never rip the tape off by force. If the tape is sticking, use a bladed tool* along the edge where the tape and the paint meet, then pull the tape up very slowly, after loosening it with the tool.

Vacuum to remove any sanding debris, replace any door hardware and enjoy your newly painted doors!

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects.

Trim Considerations

Interior architectural trim can dramatically change the look and feel of your home. It can give the illusion that a room is longer or wider than it really is, or that a low ceiling is really higher or lower than it really is. Trim can transform a room into a special and comfortable space. It can add style and elegance to your home, providing period details (English, Italian, French, Contemporary, etc.) that match your decorating sense of style. It can also help to define the purpose of a room. Painting this valuable investment can help to protect it and keep it looking beautiful for years to come.

Generally, preparation for trim painting includes sanding, scraping, filling and priming. The process can be messy and requires that areas around the trim be covered to protect them. Typical preparation steps for painting trim can include but not be limited to the following:

• While the power is off, remove any electrical outlet/switch plates or other fixtures in or near the trim, tape over outlet openings and switches
• Cover the floor under and near the trim using a drop cloth and masking paper
• Protect the walls with tape*, and drop cloths as necessary, leaving the trim to be painted accessible
• Clean the trim by dusting (with a tack cloth) or vacuuming it
• Clean the trim as necessary with a phosphate-free cleaner* and warm water, rinse thoroughly let it dry completely before proceeding with any other steps
• Repair any damaged areas on the trim
• Scraping, sanding and/or removal of old paint, may release lead dust, which is toxic. Before you start, find out how to protect yourself by contacting the National Lead Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or log on to www.epa.gov/lead
• Remove all loose paint
• Sand repaired areas to a smooth finish or feather the edges
• If the trim has a glossy sheen, dull the sheen by sanding it, then clean it to remove the sanding debris so that it does not mix into the new paint
• Remove all heavy paint lines and brush lines prior to priming
• Prime all raw wood areas before they are painted
• Caulk all gaps between the trim and adjacent surfaces
• Fill gaps between the wall and the trim with light weight spackle that can be easily sanded when dry, as necessary

There are many considerations to think about and choices to make when painting the trim in a room. One helpful option is to consider consulting with a decorating design professional for advice on paint selection and placement before starting the job.

Some tips to remember when choosing the paint color for the trim:

• When selecting a paint color for your trim, consider the room's architecture, features such as fireplaces, built-ins, the amounts and sources of natural and artificial lighting, the ceiling color, decor, windows, and doors.
• Does the trim to be painted share a wall with another room? How will the color that you select for your trim, look in the room that has the adjoining wall feature?
• When painting the trim, be sure the hue of the trim paint color that you've chosen compliments the color of your ceiling, style and decor by bringing the paint cards/chips or color samples with you when choosing your trim paint color. This will give you a good idea of how they might all look together.
• Consider painting a section of a trim with the new color to see how it looks when dry. If you don't like it you can paint over it with another color that you like better.

Three practices that can help to improve the results of a painting job include:

• Taking the time and patience to do a quality job when prepping the surfaces to be painted and the areas around them*
• Using good quality paint that is specified for the job*
• Using good quality painting products and materials that are specified for the job*

Types of Paint

There are basically two types of paint - water and solvent based. Latex, acrylic, or water-borne (water based) paint is easy to work with and by far the most popular. It dries quickly and cleans up with soap and water. Alkaloid (oil based) paints are sometimes subject to yellowing, and may take longer to dry. Oil based paints can have a very strong odor, and also need to be cleaned up with solvent. Both oil and water based types of paint come in wide ranges of colors, so either can provide almost any color you might want. If you are planning on painting over a previously painted surface, consult with your local retailer as to the type of paint you should use.

Paint Applicators

Paint brushes with natural bristles are meant to be used with oil-based paints. Natural bristles will soak up the water and become limp and compressed in water-based paints. Newer synthetic bristles are designed for water-based or latex paints, but can be used for anything. Densely packed bristles that taper to a chisel edge help with painting a straight edge, or "cutting in" where a larger applicator cannot be used due to the size of the area that needs to be painted.

Foam brushes come in many widths, are inexpensive, and are good for small jobs or touch-ups.

Paint Sheen

Sheen is another important aspect of paint that needs to be considered when painting the windows. Sheen is a measurement of the light reflecting properties of a paint finish. Paint sheens for trim range from eggshell/satin to high gloss. Manufacturers label their paint sheens in a variety of ways, but typically there are three (3) types of paint sheens for trim, they include; eggshell or satin, semi-gloss and gloss.

Eggshell or Satin Paint

• Both eggshell and satin paint have slightly more sheen than flat and are often referred to as having a "moderate paint sheen" level
• Eggshell usually has a lower sheen than satin paint
• Good choice for interior walls, for kids' rooms or high traffic areas
• Can be used in kitchens and bathrooms or applied to trim and doors
• Better stain resistance than flat paints, resists and can be scrubbed more vigorously than flat paint

Semi-gloss Paint

• Has a higher sheen than eggshell or satin finishes
• More resistant to dirt and scuff marks and easier to clean than eggshell or satin finishes
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• Areas that require regular or vigorous cleaning may benefit from using a semi-gloss paint

Gloss Paint

• This highly reflective finish is tougher, more stain resistant and easier to clean than any lower paint sheen
• Because of their highly reflective nature surface imperfections will be noticeable and possibly exaggerated
• Typically used in kitchens, bathrooms and on trim, windows or doors
• May have a "plastic", coated look when applied to smooth trim and doors

After you've prepped your trim, primed your trim, selected the paint color for the job and brought all of your paint products, supplies and applicators into the painting area, you're ready to get started.

Some tips to remember when painting trim:

• Use a quality paint brush to apply the paint
• Load the brush by inserting about one-third of the brush in the paint and tap the brush on the side of the can to remove the excess
• Do not overload the brush with paint between strokes
• Apply the paint to the trim in long even strokes unloading first one side of the brush and then the other
• Smooth out any paint lines as needed after both sides of the brush have been unloaded
• Work continuously spreading the paint out evenly and smoothly so as to leave no brush lines
• Finish painting each piece in the direction of the wood grain
• Let the first coat dry completely, before applying a second coat

And now you're ready to clean up!

Always fold the used drop cloths in on themselves before removing them. Gently remove the tape after the paint is dry. Never rip the tape off by force. If the tape is sticking, use a bladed tool* along the edge where the tape and the paint meet, then pull the tape up very slowly, after loosening it with the tool.

Remove the plastic bags from your wall fixtures, alarm sensors and other fixed electrical mountings. Replace any mounting parts that were removed or loosened. Vacuum to remove any sanding debris, put your curtains back up, replace the furniture, and the accent pieces back into the room, and enjoy your newly painted trim!

* Ask your local retailer for suggestions about products and materials you can use for your projects.

Congratulations!

You've just completed the budgetary estimate for your specific painting, project using the Quick Estimator, a free, Internet based, service product brought to you by Easy Estimator Corporation. This budgetary estimate will give you a good starting point on your project. It's also important to note that the budgetary estimate you've just created contains industry average pricing for the labor, and the materials that your project might require, based upon what you've specified during the Quick Estimator session.

Some questions to consider before deciding what to do next may include:

QUESTION: Is the budgetary estimate within your budget?

If not, then consider doing some of the prep work yourself, such as moving the furniture, repairing cracks, caulking and priming the surfaces to be painted. Quick Estimator can help you with this. Just go back, and when answering the questions again, consider what work you can do yourself, and then answer "no" when asked if furniture needs to be moved or repair work needs to be done. This will help to lower the budgetary estimate for the project.

QUESTION: Are you going to do the work yourself?

Be sure that you review the Quick Estimator CONSIDERATIONS for each painting project to prepare the surfaces to be painted, protecting the work area and the materials that you may need for your painting project. As one of the Quick Estimator CONSIDERATIONS states "Properly preparing a room for painting can mean the difference between a paint job that's seamless, smooth and consistent, or one that ends up streaked, uneven, spotted, or even begins peeling." Also consider if you have the time, the patience and most importantly the skills necessary to get the results and the look that you expect.

QUESTION: Are you going to hire someone to do the work?

Calling on the creative skills of an interior designer may be a good approach to "seeing" how your project will look when it's finished. An interior designer can actually create a "look" using full color drawings for your specific painting project, and give you a "view" of the project, complete with colors, your decor, architecture and room dimensions before you ever start the project.

Hiring a painting professional to do the work can save you valuable personal time, because they'll do the work for you. It's important to insist on references, credentials and if possible, to actually go and see the work recently done by the professional. Another important point when hiring a painting professional is that the lowest price is not necessarily the best deal. Experienced professionals that provide high quality results, caring and excellent service, and the results that you want, are rarely if ever going to be the lowest bidders.

• Ask as many questions as you need to feel comfortable with the painting professional that you are considering to hire. It's important to feel that this professional will care as much about the finished results, and their presence in your home, as you do. A checklist of "qualifying" questions that you can ask the painting professional may include, but would not be limited to:
• Do you have insurance, and if so what type (general liability, workman's compensation on all personnel that will be on my premises, what are the limits of liability on the insurance policies?
• Do you have the appropriate, and up to date applicable State, City and Country licenses?
• Will the job require a permit? Is that included in the price?
• Do you offer a warranty on your work, if so what are the terms?
• Will you give me a "workman's waiver" when the project is completed?
• Do you have a program to handle hazardous material situations, including asbestos and lead?
• Who will be working on my project? Have they been background checked, drug tested and are they experienced in doing the work that they'll be doing on my project?
• What do you do in terms of clean-up work when the project is completed?
• Do you need all the furniture removed from the room?
• How long have you been in business? What kind of painting work do you specialize in?
• How long will the job take, and how many people will you have working on it?
• What kind of paint do you use? What will you use on my project?

This is just a short list of questions that you can ask the painting professional to help you qualify them for your painting project. With this checklist and the Quick Estimator budgetary estimate, you will be well on your way to hiring a qualified painting professional to get the project done to your specifications.

Finally, if you haven't registered on mypaintbid.com, we invite you to do so! This will give you the ability to save, modify and create new budgetary estimates for your painting projects as often as you like. When you become a member of mypaintbid.com, your information will not be shared with third parties. Additionally, no one will be contacting you, unless you would like to receive mypaintbid.com updates about new services and features available to you as we develop our website further. We thank you for taking the time to use the Quick Estimator, and invite you to come back soon and see our new developments!

The staff at Easy Estimator